Raspberries seem unpretentious, but it is in March that they require maximum attention.
First of all, remove the winter cover, if there was one. Do this on a cloudy day so that the harsh light does not burn the shoots.
Inspect the bushes: cut out brown, dry or spotted stems at the root - these are signs of disease.

Shorten last year’s healthy shoots by 20–30 cm – this will stimulate the growth of side branches where the berries will set.
Now thin out the raspberry patch. Leave 8-10 strong shoots per linear meter of row, remove the rest.
Crowding is the main cause of small berries and fungal infections. If raspberries grow in bushes, leave 5-7 stems per plant.
Be sure to tie the shoots to a trellis or stakes - this way they will not break in the wind and will be evenly illuminated.
Next, pest control. Pour boiling water with potassium permanganate (a weak pink solution) onto the soil around the bushes.
This will kill the raspberry beetle and weevil larvae. Spray the trunks and lower leaves with a solution of laundry soap (200 g per 10 l of water) - this will scare away the aphids.
Raspberry feeding in March should be complex. Sprinkle nitroammophoska (30–40 g per m²) under the bushes or add rotted manure (5–6 kg per m²). A week later, add ash (half a glass per bush) — it will neutralize the acidity of the soil and add potassium.
Loosening is a mandatory step. But remember: raspberry roots are shallow, so loosen carefully, 5-8 cm.
Immediately after this, mulch the soil with peat, straw or mown grass. Mulch will retain moisture and inhibit weed growth.
And the last life hack: if you want to prolong fruiting, cut some shoots more strongly, and some - only slightly. Then the first berries will appear earlier, and the last ones will ripen by the end of summer.
Just don’t forget to water the raspberries once every 10–12 days, especially if the spring is dry – without water the berries will be small and sour.