Roses surviving Siberian frosts without shelter is not a myth.
The secret is to prepare them for the cold from August. Stop fertilizing with nitrogen, otherwise the shoots will remain soft and freeze. Instead, in September, add potassium salt under the bushes - it will strengthen the bark.
Then cut the stems to a height of 15–20 cm. Short shoots will not break under the weight of snow and will not become bait for rodents.
But the main trick is mulching. Use spruce branches instead of sawdust or peat. The needles not only retain heat, but also repel mice.
And in the spring, when the snow melts, the spruce branches will become a source of phytoncides that protect roses from fungus.
Another life hack is digging. If the winter promises to be snowless, rake 20 cm high earthen ridges around the bushes. They will hold the cold air, preventing it from reaching the roots.
And don’t rush to remove the cover in the spring: wait until the soil warms up to +10°C.
Then the roses will wake up on their own and start growing without stress. In a year, you will be surprised how easy it is to preserve the queen of flowers even in severe frosts.
But that's not all. The choice of variety plays a key role. For example, Canadian roses of the Explorer series or park varieties like 'Hansaland' are genetically resistant to extreme temperatures. Their roots can withstand temperatures as low as -40°C, and their shoots recover even after frostbite.
Plant roses on elevated areas where water does not stagnate - dampness is more destructive than frost.
If the winter is not very snowy, rake the snow manually, forming snowdrifts around the bushes. This is better than any agrofibre.
And in the summer, harden the plants: moderate watering and no nitrogen fertilizing after July will make the shoots dense and hardy.
Fun fact: roses that have experienced stress bloom more vividly. Cold activates genes responsible for color saturation. So don't be afraid to experiment - nature is wiser than it seems.
Author: Elena Shimanovskaya