Imagine your orchid blooming so profusely that your neighbors peer into their windows, asking the secret.
You may be missing details you didn't even realize.
Orchids are not capricious princesses, as many people think. They just live by their own rules, and if you understand them, your windowsill will turn into a tropical garden.
All you need to do is stop being afraid and start noticing the little things that work wonders.
The first thing beginners forget is that orchids do not grow in the ground. Their roots are used to clinging to the bark of trees, passing air and rainwater through themselves.
Therefore, ordinary soil is like concrete shackles for them. Plant the plant in a special substrate made of bark, moss and charcoal.
A transparent pot with holes is the ideal choice: the roots need to "breathe" and participate in photosynthesis. If they turn silvery, it's time to water, and the green ones say: "So far, so good."
Watering is a ritual, not a routine. Orchids love moisture, but hate dampness. Submerge the pot in water for 10-15 minutes, letting the roots drink, then wait until the substrate is almost completely dry. In summer, this can be once a week, in winter - once every two weeks.
But ice instead of water is a controversial advice. The cold can shock the tropical beauty. It is better to use water at room temperature, letting it settle.
Light is the main artist who “paints” flowers. Orchids love bright but diffused light. Direct sunlight causes burns, and in a dark corner the plant will simply stop blooming. An eastern or western window is ideal.
If the leaves have become dark green, there is not enough light; a reddish tint means there is too much light. In winter, illuminate with a phytolamp, simulating a long daylight.
But remember: even under ideal conditions, the orchid will not bloom if it has not had a dormant period. After flowering, reduce watering and lower the temperature by 3-5 degrees for a month - this will stimulate new buds.
Fertilizers are not the most important thing, but you can't do without them. Choose fertilizers marked "for orchids" and dilute them more than stated.
Roots are easy to burn. Feed only during leaf growth and flowering, and let the plant rest during the dormant period. And one more thing: never pour fertilizer on dry roots - moisten them first.
Repotting is stressful, but sometimes necessary. Change the pot and substrate every 2-3 years or if the roots are clearly crowded.
Carefully remove the plant, remove dry and rotten roots (healthy ones are green and elastic), wash them and let them dry for a couple of hours.
The new pot should be slightly larger than the old one. After replanting, do not water for 3-4 days - this will allow the wounds on the roots to heal.
Pests rarely attack orchids, but if you notice sticky drops or cobwebs, act immediately. Wipe the leaves with a soft cloth with soapy water, and in difficult cases, use insecticides.
The main thing is to isolate the sick plant from the others.
The biggest mistake is to wait for flowers all year round. Even the most well-groomed orchid blooms for 2-3 months, then rests. But if there are no buds for years, check the conditions: is there enough light? Is it overwatered? Is it overfed? Often the problem is in excess care.
And finally: orchids sense your mood. They do not like fuss, sudden temperature changes and drafts. Put them where you read or drink coffee - they like calm energy.
Over time, you will learn to understand their "language": elastic leaves, bright roots, new shoots. And when the first bud appears, you will understand - this is gratitude for your patience.
And then your neighbors' questions about secrets will no longer bother you. After all, the main secret is not in fertilizers or pots, but in treating the orchid not as an ornament, but as a living creature that wants to grow next to you.
Author: Igor Zur