It seems that raspberries should grow on their own: unpretentious, hardy, almost a weed.
But year after year the berries become smaller, the bushes wither, and the harvest resembles pitiful peas. What is the reason?
The answer is so obvious that most people don't even notice the fatal mistake. It's not about fertilizing, watering or diseases.
The main problem is how and when to prune the shoots. Most gardeners remove old branches in the fall or early spring, leaving young shoots.
But raspberries are a two-year crop. Only the second-year shoots bear fruit, and after harvesting they die. If they are not removed in time, they become a breeding ground for diseases and pests, and draw nutrition and light away from new stems.
As a result, young shoots do not have time to gain strength, and the berries that are produced on them are small and weak.
The solution is simple: immediately after harvesting, cut all fruit-bearing stems to the root, without waiting until autumn. This will free up space, improve ventilation and direct the plant's resources to the growth of new shoots.
But there is a nuance: you can't leave stumps. Even small remains of stems attract fungi and larvae, which overwinter and attack the bushes in the spring.
Another common mistake is thickening. Raspberries love freedom. The distance between bushes should be at least 70 cm, and between rows - 1.5 meters. Otherwise, the roots compete for nutrition, and the shoots reach for the light, becoming thin and brittle.
For varieties with high shoot-forming ability, standardization is a mandatory ritual. 8-10 strong stems are left per bush, the rest are removed.
Fertilizers also require attention. Nitrogen fertilizers in spring stimulate the growth of green mass, but their excess leads to fattening of bushes to the detriment of fruiting.
After flowering, the emphasis is on potassium and phosphorus. Ash is the ideal option: 200 grams per square meter under the root. It not only nourishes, but also reduces the acidity of the soil, which raspberries do not tolerate.
Watering is another stumbling block. Raspberry roots are shallow, so drying out the top layer is detrimental. But you can't flood the beds: stagnant water provokes root rot.
The optimal regime is 20-30 liters per square meter once a week, if there is no rain. Mulching with straw or compost will retain moisture and protect the roots from overheating.
The final touch is protection from pests. The raspberry beetle and stem gall midge can destroy the harvest. Spraying with a solution of laundry soap (100 grams per 10 liters) before flowering will repel insects without chemicals. If the bushes are already affected, the damaged shoots are cut off and burned.
These simple steps will restore the raspberry bush's strength, and the berries will become large and sweet again.
The main thing is not to repeat the mistake of the majority, who accumulate problems for years instead of acting decisively.
Author: Kurchev Anton